Composition and process for treating hair

ABSTRACT

Disclosed herein is hair cosmetic composition comprising a thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid and its derivatives or salts, and wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7. Also disclosed is a process for shaping or 5 altering the shape of hair or caring of the hair.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present application relates to a composition and a process involvingapplying the composition onto hair, wherein the composition contains anthiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid and its derivativesor its salts, and wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substratessuch as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example,as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form,these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits andattributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture,stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application.Thus, in order to meet changing consumer needs and preferences,manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate andcreate new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stableand safe to use. In addition, manufacturers continue to test the use ofnew raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that would helpdeliver the desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity,texture, stability and efficacy.

One area where manufacturers are always seeking to improve in is in thearea of hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to changethe appearance, shape or configuration of hair as well as to providehair care benefits of manageability, frizz control, volume reduction,and improved quality of the hair fiber. Examples of such hair cosmeticproducts are hair relaxers or hair straighteners which can relax orstraighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair. Other hair cosmeticproducts are perms and waving compositions for providing curl or shapeto hair. These products may increase the manageability and ease ofstyling hair and they may either be applied in a hair salon by aprofessional or in the home by the individual consumer.

One type of composition that can be applied onto hair in order to changeits shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition.Alkaline hair relaxing/straightening involves hydrolyzing the keratin ofthe hair with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, forinstance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidinehydroxide, or organic amines. Hair relaxing/straightening products thatemploy sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called lye-basedproducts and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithiumhydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxidecompounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall under thecategory of no-lye products.

Still, it is desirable to find alternatives to the alkaline lye- andno-lye-based products and process described above which can damage thehair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers. However,the discovery of new compositions and processes for changing the shapeof hair that impart less or minimal damage to hair, may pose challengesto manufacturers and formulators because the incorporation of newingredients into the compositions may negatively impacting theirperformance, cosmetic attributes, and formulation stability. Inaddition, the alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration forthese products. New processes of treating and changing the shape of hairmay also impact the performance of the compositions, processing timesand quality of use.

The present invention provides a hair cosmetic composition for shapingor altering the shape of hair or caring of the hair, the compositioncontaining an thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid,thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof,optionally a neutralizing agent, and water, wherein the composition isnon-alkaline such that its pH ranges from about 2 to less than about 7.The present invention also provides a process for shaping or alteringthe shape of hair or caring of the hair, such as by straightening thehair or by providing improved manageability to the hair, in an easy andefficacious manner, the process comprising applying onto the hair, saidcomposition and heating the hair while optionally applying a smoothingaction on the hair, and optionally, rinsing the hair with water orcontacting the hair with an intermediate agent selected from a shampooand/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water. The treatment ofhair in accordance with the process of the present disclosure can befollowed by a step of contacting the hair with a neutralizingcomposition containing an oxidizing agent. Such neutralizing compositioncan be a rinse-off or leave-in product. The hair can also be contactedwith a pre-treatment composition such as a shampoo, then rinsed withwater before the hair cosmetic composition is applied onto the hair orother pre-treatment compositions which may be leave-in or rinse-offcompositions.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the composition ofthe present invention, when applied onto hair fibers, result in aneffective process of shaping or altering the shape of hair or providinghair care benefits to hair such as manageability, frizz control andvolume reduction. In addition, the process of the invention allows thestraightening or texlaxing (results in wavy hair) of hair while at thesame time, limiting or avoiding the degradation of hair resulting fromalkaline systems and maintaining desirable working conditions,especially since there is no excessive vaporization of the compositionat the time of treating the hair in accordance with the hair treatmentprocess according to the invention. The hair treatment process accordingto the invention also makes it possible to minimize the problems ofbreakage of the hair fibers. The composition and the process of theinvention were also found to improve the physical properties andappearance of hair, by durably reducing or controlling the volume andfrizziness of hair.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

-   -   (a) at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic        acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures        thereof;    -   (b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent; and    -   (c) water;        wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less        than about 7.

The present invention also relates to a process for shaping hair oraltering the shape of hair, the process comprising the steps of:

-   -   (1) applying onto hair, the above-described composition:    -   (2) optionally, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;    -   (3) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40° C.; while        optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and    -   (4) optionally, rinsing the hair with water.

The hair can be contacted after step (3) with an intermediate agentselected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing withwater.

The hair can also be contacted with a shampoo or a conditioner, thenrinsed with water before the hair cosmetic composition is applied ontothe hair.

The hair can also be contacted with a pre-treatment composition beforethe hair cosmetic composition is applied onto the hair.

Methods of making the compositions of the present invention are alsodisclosed in this disclosure.

According to the present invention, the composition of the invention ispreferably in the form of an emulsion, for example, oil-in-wateremulsion and water-in-oil emulsion or in the form of a gel or lotion oraqueous solution.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description andthe following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only,and are not restrictive of the invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

FIG. 1 represents photographic images of hair samples, showing thestraightening/shaping effects on hair after being contacted with thehair cosmetic composition and treated according to the processes of thepresent disclosure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thusincludes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within +/−10% of the indicated number (e.g. “about 10%”means 9%-11% and “about 2%” means 1.8%-2.2%), such as within 9%, 8%, 7%,6%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, or 1%, according to various embodiments.

“Keratinous substrates” as used herein, includes, but is not limited tokeratin fibers such as hair on the human head and hair comprisingeyelashes. “Keratinous substrates” as used herein, may also refer to theskin such as lips, finger nails or toe nails, and the scalp.

As used herein, the terms “applying a composition onto “keratinoussubstrates” as used herein, includes, and “applying a composition onto“keratinous substrates” or “keratin fibers” such as hair on a human headwith at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner.

The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refersto the application of the compositions of the present disclosure ontothe surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term ‘treat” (andits grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contactingkeratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the presentdisclosure.

The term “rinse-off” is used herein to mean that a keratinous substratesuch as hair is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or duringthe application of a composition onto the keratinous substrate, andbefore drying and/or shaping said keratinous substrate. At least aportion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrateduring the rinsing and/or washing. A “rinse-off” product refers to acomposition such as a hair care composition that is rinsed and/or washedwith water either after or during the application of the compositiononto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling saidkeratinous substrate.

A “leave-on” product refers to a cosmetic composition such as a haircosmetic composition that is applied to a keratinous substrate such ashair and not further subjected to a rinsing and/or washing step beforedrying and/or shaping the substrate.

The term “stable” as used herein means that the composition does notexhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

“Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of less thanabout 100° C.

“Non-volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point of greaterthan about 100° C.

“Reducing agent” as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing thedisulfide bonds of the hair.

“Active material” as used herein with respect to the percent amount ofan ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredientor raw material.

The compositions and processes of the present invention can comprise,consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements andlimitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additionalor optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein orotherwise useful.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmeticcomposition comprising:

(a) at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid,thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts and mixtures thereof, andpresent in an amount of from about 1% to about 15% by weight, preferablyfrom about 1.5% to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 2% toabout 10% by weight, even more preferably from about 3% to about 9% byweight;

(b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent selected from organicamines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkalimetal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof,preferably from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassiumhydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanolamine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine,arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calciumbicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less than about7;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected fromaminomethyl propanol, the aminomethyl propanol is present in an amountof from about 0.1% to about 6.3% by weight;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from sodiumhydroxide, the sodium hydroxide is present in an amount of from about0.1% to about 4.1% by weight; and

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected frommonoethanolamine, the monoethanolamine is present in an amount of fromabout 0.1% to about 4.1% by weight.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates a hair cosmeticcomposition comprising:

(a) from about 1.5% to about 12% by weight of at least one thiol-basedcompound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least one fatty substance;

(d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 6.5.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a haircosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 2% to about 10% by weight of at least one thiol-basedcompound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least one fatty substance selected from from alkanes, esters offatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones,non-silicone waxes, mineral oil, vegetable oils, non-silicone syntheticoils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, preferably mineral oil,stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected frombehentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimoniummethosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and polyquaternium compoundssuch as polyquaternium-6, or polyquaternium 10, or polyquaternium-67,and mixtures thereof; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 5.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmeticcomposition comprising:

(a) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one thiol-basedcompound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) from about 1% to about 80% by weight at least one fatty substancecomprising oils and fatty alcohols;

(d) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of at least one nonionicsurfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols,alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof,preferably from alkyl(ether)phosphates such as PPG-5-Ceteth-10phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, amixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate,Cetyl phosphate, or Stearyl phosphate; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 5.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a haircosmetic composition comprising:

-   -   (a) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one        thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;    -   (b) at least one neutralizing agent;    -   (c) from about 1% to about 80% by weight at least one fatty        substance comprising oils and fatty alcohols;    -   (d) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of at least one        nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols,        alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures        thereof, preferably from alkyl(ether)phosphates such as        PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10        phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate        and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, or        Stearyl phosphate;    -   (e) at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from        behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium        methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and polyquaternium        compounds such as polyquaternium-6, or polyquaternium 10, or        polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof; and    -   (f) water;    -   all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;    -   wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about        5.

In certain embodiments, the above-described compositions of the presentdisclosure comprises at least two fatty substances selected from oilssuch as mineral oil and fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, cetearylalcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the above-described compositions of the presentdisclosure comprises at least two nonionic surfactants selected fromPPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate,Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetylphosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, andmixtures thereof.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a haircosmetic composition comprising:

-   -   (a) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one        thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;    -   (b) at least one neutralizing agent;    -   (c) from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight of at least one        silicone compound;    -   (d) from about 0.3% to about 1.5% by weight of at least one        thickening agent selected from thickening polymers comprising at        least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums,        optionally modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups,        biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan        gum or xanthan gum, gums derived from plant exudates, such as        gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan        gum, agar gum and carob gum, pectins, alginates, starches,        hydroxy(C1-C6)alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), and        carboxy(C1-C6)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably,        hydroxyalkyl celluloses; and    -   (e) water;        -   all weights being based on the total weight of the            composition;            wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to            less than about 7.

In an embodiment, the present invention relates to a process forstraightening hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(1) optionally, contacting hair with a shampoo and/or conditioner,followed by rinsing the hair with water;

(2) applying onto the hair, any one of the above-described compositionsof the present disclosure,

(3) optionally, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;

(4) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40° C.; whileoptionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(5) optionally, rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair withan intermediate agent selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner,followed by rinsing with water; and

(6) optionally, contacting the hair with a neutralizing compositioncomprising an oxidizing agent.

Preferably, the above-described process comprises the steps of:

(1) first, applying onto the hair, any one of the above-describedcompositions of the invention;

(2) second, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;

(3) third, heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40° C.; whileoptionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(4) fourth, heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40° C.; whileoptionally applying a smoothing action on the hair.

In certain embodiments, the heating step in any one of theabove-described processes of the invention is preferably accomplished byuse of device such as a blow dryer, a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heatlamp, a heat wand, a heating hood, a heating cap, a heating rod, heatingcurlers/rods or steam curlers. When a hair dryer or blow dryer is used,a brush or comb or the fingers may be passed one or more times over orthrough the hair.

The heating step in any one of the above-described processes of theinvention may also be accompanied by a smoothing action on the hair,preferably performed with a mechanical or physical device, for example,the plates of a flat iron or a hair brush.

In certain embodiments, the heating step in any one of theabove-described processes is accomplished at a temperature higher than100° C.

In other embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-describedprocesses is accomplished at a temperature of up to 100° C.

In yet other embodiments, the heating step in any one of theabove-described processes is accomplished at a temperature of higherthan 50° C.

In certain embodiments, the above-described compositions employed in anyone of the above-described processes of the invention is allowed toremain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient toshape or alter the shape or provide hair benefits to hair (e.g.,manageability, frizz control or volume reduction).

In preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of theabove-described processes of the invention is a hair straighteningcomposition. In yet other preferred embodiments, said hair straighteningcomposition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amountof time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.

In yet other preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of theabove-described processes of the invention is a hair care composition.

In yet other preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of theabove-described processes of the invention is a hair stylingcomposition.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the application ofthe compositions of the present invention when used in combination withthe process of the present invention, resulted in effectively shaped orstyled or straightened hair.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that when thecomposition of the invention additionally contained one or more ofnonionic surfactants, fatty substances, quaternary ammonium compounds,thickening agents, and silicone compounds, the composition had a smooth,non-drip, and homogenous texture/consistency. The non-drip consistencyof the compositions of the present invention is desirable because ithelps the compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amountof time as to achieve the desired cosmetic effects.

Thiol-Based Compounds

The present invention employs at least one thiol-based compound selectedfrom thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, andmixtures thereof.

The at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can beused in combination with other thiol-based compounds selected fromthioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione,thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid,3-mercaptopropionic acid, thio diglyco I, 2-mercaptoethanol,dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid,lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixturesthereof.

The at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can bealso be used in combination with non-thiol based compounds such asalkali metal, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, hydrides or phosphines, andmixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the thiol-based compound used in the compositionof the invention is thiolactic acid.

The at least one thiol-based compound can be employed in thecompositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 1% toabout 15% by weight, preferably from about 1.5% to about 10% by weight,more preferably from about 2% to about 8% by weight, more preferablyfrom about 3% to about 9% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the at least one thiol-based compound isselected from thiolactic acid and is employed in the composition of thepresent invention in an amount of about 1%, 1.25%, 1.5%, 1.75%, 2%,2.25%, 2.5%, or about 2.75%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%,5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75%, 7%, 7.25%, 7.5%, 7.75%,8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 11%, 11.5%, 12%, 13%, or14%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Neutralizing Agent

Suitable neutralizing agents may be selected from alkali metalcarbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide basecompounds, and mixtures thereof, particularly from organic amines,alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, and mixturesthereof.

Organic amines may be selected from amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (oraminomethyl propanol), ethylamines, ethyleneamines, alkanolamines,cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated,having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.

The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25° C. ofless than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should benoted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highestbasicity.

Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or twoprimary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linearor branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di-or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or differentC1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline,aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine,imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine,piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentionedinclude but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known asmonoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine,monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine,2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine,2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol,3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, andtris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Other examples include but are not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane,1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.

As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used may be ofnatural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise atleast one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid,sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The aminoacids may be in their neutral or ionic form.

Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but arenot limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine,ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine,glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan,tyrosine, and valine.

Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be chosen frombasic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionallyincluded in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids maybe chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic aminesof heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentionedin the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine,piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino aciddipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the presentdisclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compoundscomprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may beused in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that hasalready been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine,1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin,agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid,4-guanidinobutyric acid, and2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that may be used are, forexample, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodiumbicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and theirderivatives.

The hydroxide base compounds chosen from alkali metal hydroxides,alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternaryammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitableexamples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide,lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, franciumhydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide,strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganesehydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, ceriumhydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide,aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

The at least one neutralizing agent may be chosen from at least oneorganic amine such as at least one alkanolamine. Particularly preferredalkanolamines are 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (aminomethyl propanol),ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), triethanolamine,and mixtures thereof. An even more particularly preferred alkanolamineis ethanolamine.

According to at least one embodiment, the at least one neutralizingagent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassiumhydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanolamine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine,arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calciumbicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizingagent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithiumhydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent isselected from aminomethyl propanol and is present in an amount of fromabout 0.1% to about 6.3% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about5.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight,even more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4.6% by weight, based onthe total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subrangesthere between.

In certain embodiments, the at least one neutralizing agent selectedfrom aminomethyl propanol is employed in the compositions of the presentinvention in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%,0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.75%, 2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.75%, or3%, 3.3%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.3%, 4.5%, 4.6%, by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent isselected from sodium hydroxide and is present in an amount of from about0.1% to about 4.1% by weight, preferably from about 0.15% to about 3.5%by weight, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 3% by weight, evenmore preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition, including all ranges and subrangestherebetween.

In certain embodiments, the at least one neutralizing agent selectedfrom sodium hydroxide is employed in the compositions of the presentinvention in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%,0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%,1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, about 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%,3%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In yet another preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agentis selected from monoethanolamine and is present in an amount of fromabout 0.1% to about 6.3% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about5.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight,even more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4.6% by weight, based onthe total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subrangesthere between.

In certain embodiments, the at least one neutralizing agent selectedfrom monoethanolamine is employed in the compositions of the presentinvention in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%,0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.75%, 2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.75%, or3%, 3.3%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.3%, 4.5%, 4.6%, by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition.

Fatty Substances

The present invention employs at least one fatty substance.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insolublein water at ordinary room temperature (25 degrees centigrade) and atatmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5 percent,preferably 1 percent and even more preferentially 0.1 percent). Theyhave in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containingat least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organicsolvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, forinstance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly ordecamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substance may be selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid,esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, non-silicone waxes, mineral oil,vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, andmixtures thereof.

The fatty substances are especially chosen from C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons,hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particularalkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides orfluoro oils of synthetic origin, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters,and non-silicone waxes.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty estersand fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular withone or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they areunsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated orunconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C₆-C₁₆ alkanes, they are linear, branched or possiblycyclic. Mention may be made, by way of example, of hexane, dodecane orisoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane. The linear or branchedhydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen fromliquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes,and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

Among the animal oils, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Among the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may bemade of liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbonatoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, oralternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrowoil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojobaoil, shea butter oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, forinstance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those soldunder the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.

Among the fluoro oils, mention may be made ofperfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, soldunder the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFLFluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanessuch as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under thenames PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctylsold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem;nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as4-(trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® bythe company 3M.

The wax(es) that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (I)are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grasswax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, ricewax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such asthe essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin(France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes(cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be usedaccording to the invention are especially marine waxes such as theproduct sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, andpolyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, whichare advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above,mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated,linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturatedor unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono- orpolyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularlybeing greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate;octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyllactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyllactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate;cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate;isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononylisononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristylstearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octylpalmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate;oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate;2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl,cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate;butyl stearate; isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate; hexyl laurate or2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this alternative form, use may also be madeof esters of C₄-C₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂ alcoholsand esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy C₂-C₂₆ alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropylsebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate;diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecylerucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryltrilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleylcitrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferably made of ethyl,isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl,cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate,isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate,isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters anddiesters of C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalledthat the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compoundscontaining several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketonefunctions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars canbe monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose (orsaccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose,mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particularalkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for examplemethylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular fromthe group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugarsdescribed above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branchedC₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated,these compounds can comprise from one to three conjugated ornon-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen frommono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates,myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular,oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particularmono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate,-linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under thename Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples of esters or mixtures ofesters of sugar and of fatty acid, of:

the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 byCrodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitate/stearates formed of 73percent monoester and 27 percent di- and triester, of 61 percentmonoester and 39 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, of 52 percentmonoester and 48 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, of 45 percentmonoester and 55 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, and of 39 percentmonoester and 61 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrosemonolaurate;

the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for examplereferenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed of 20percent monoester and 80 percent diester, triester and polyester;

the sucrose monopalmitate/stearate-dipalmitate/stearate sold byGoldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise any C₂-C₃ oxyalkyleneunits or any glycerol units. Preferably, the first fatty substances arenot salified fatty acids or soaps, which are water-soluble compounds.

The fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C₆-C₁₆ hydrocarbons,hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particularalkanes, oils of plant origin, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters,and silicones, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty substance is an oil (a compound that is liquid ata temperature of 25 degrees centigrade and at atmospheric pressure).

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from mineral oil, C₆-C₁₆alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters ortheir mixtures.

Better still, the fatty substance is chosen from mineral oil, C₆-C₁₆alkanes or polydecenes.

Most preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from paraffin oils,petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, perfluoromethylcyclopentane,perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, mineral oil, dodecafluoropentane,hexane, dodecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, sunflower oil, maize oil,soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricotoil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil,jojoba oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition may be chosenfrom alcohols of formula R′OH, in which R′ denotes a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched radical, comprising from 6 to 40 carbonatoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that maybe mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixturethereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol,2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol,behenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

In certain embodiments, the at least fatty substance is chosen frommineral oil, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, andmixtures thereof.

The at least one fatty substance can be employed in the composition ofthe present invention in an amount of from 1% to 80% by weight,preferably from 1.5% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 55% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition

The fatty substance chosen from oils such as mineral oil, can beemployed in the composition of the present invention in an amount offrom about 1% to about 70% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about65% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 60% by weight,more preferably from about 1.5% to about 55% by weight, more preferablyfrom about 1.75% to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 2%to about 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition,including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from mineral oiland is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amountof about 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 9%, or 10% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In other embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from mineral oiland is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amountof about 40%, 41%, 42%, 43%, 43.5%, 44%, 44.5%, 45%, 46%, 47%, 48%, 49%,or 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols can be employed in thecomposition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.5% toabout 30% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 25% by weight,more preferably from about 2% to about 20% by weight, more preferablyfrom about 2.5% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 2.75%to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 3% to about 10% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition, including allranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from cetearylalcohol and is employed in the composition of the present invention inan amount of about 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 9%,or 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic Surfactant

The compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosure alsocomprise at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkoxylated fattyalcohols, alkylpolyglucosides, alkyl(ether)phosphates, and mixturesthereof.

“Alkoxylated fatty alcohol” as used herein means a compound having atleast one fatty portion (8 carbon atoms or more) and at least onealkoxylated portion (—(CH₂)_(n)O—, where n is an integer from 1 to 5,preferably 2 to 3). According to particularly preferred embodiments, thealkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention can be used asnon-ionic surfactants, if desired. In this regard, the alkoxylated fattyalcohols of the present invention preferably have an HLB(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value from 1-20, including all rangesand subranges therebetween, with HLB values ranging from 1 to 5(particularly 3 to 5) or from 15-20 (particularly 16 to 18) being mostpreferred.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from di-alkyl,tri-alkyl- and combinations of di-alkyl and tri-alkyl substitutedethoxylated polymers. They can also be chosen from mono-alkyl, di-alkyl,tri-alkyl, tetra-alkyl substituted alkyl ethoxylated polymers and allcombinations thereof. The alkyl group can be saturated or unsaturated,branched or linear and contain a number of carbon atoms preferably fromabout 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all ranges andsubranges therebetween, for example, 20 to 40 carbon atoms, 22 to 24carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms, and 40 to 60 carbon atoms. Mostpreferably, the fatty portion contains a mixture of compounds of varyingcarbon atoms such as, for example, C20-C40 compounds, C22-C24 compounds,C30-050 compounds, and C40-C60 compounds.

Preferably, the alkoxylated portion of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols ofthe present invention contain 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferablyfrom 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably from 20 to 150alkoxylation units, and preferably from 25 to 100 alkoxylation units,including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Also preferably, thealkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3carbon atoms (propoxylation units).

The amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the percent byweight of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight ofthe compound. Suitable weight percentages of the alkoxylated portionwith respect to the total weight of the compound include, but are notlimited to, 10 percent to 95 percent, preferably 20 percent to 90percent, including all ranges and subranges therebetween with 75 percentto 90 percent (particularly 80 percent to 90 percent) or 20 percent to50 percent being preferred.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention havea number average molecular weight (Mn) greater than 500, preferably from500 to 5,000, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as,for example, Mn of 500 to 1250 or an Mn of 2,000 to 5,000.

The alkyl substitution of the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can includemono-alkyl, di-alkyl, tri-alkyl and tetra-alkyl substitution of thepolymer and combinations thereof. Suitable examples of mono alkylsubstituted polymers include: Steareth-100 available as Brij 700 fromUniqema Inc., Pareth alcohols available as Performathox 450, 480 and 490available from New Phase Technologies, Inc. Suitable examples ofdi-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleateavailable as Glutamate DOE-120 and Glucamate DOE-120 both from ChemronCorporation. Suitable examples of tri-alkyl substituted polymers includePEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate available as Glucamate LT from ChemronCorporation. Suitable examples of tetra-alkyl substituted polymersinclude PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate available as Crothix fromCroda Corporation.

Suitiable alkoxylated fatty alcohols for use in the present inventioninclude, but are not limited to, alkoxylated C20-C40 fatty alcohols soldunder the PERFORMATHOX® name by New Phase Technologies such as, forexample, PERFORMATHOX® 420 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=575; 20 percent by weightethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX® 450 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=920; 50 percent byweight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX® 480 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=2300; 80 percentby weight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX® 490 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=4600; 90percent by weight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX® 520 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=690;20 percent by weight ethoxylation), and PERFORMATHOX® 550 ETHOXYLATE(Mn=1100; 50 percent by weight ethoxylation).

Suitable alkyl(ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to,alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esterscorresponding to a mono-ester of formula (I) and salts thereof:

RO[CH₂O]_(u)[(CH₂)_(x)CH(R′)(CH₂)_(y)(CH₂)_(z)O]_(v)[CH₂CH₂O]_(w)—PO—(OH)₂  Formula(I);

a di-ester corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:

{RO[CH₂O]_(u)[CH₂)_(x)CH(R′)(CH₂)_(y)(CH₂)_(z)O]_(v)[CH₂CH₂O]_(w)}₂PO—(OH)  Formula(II);

a tri-ester corresponding to formula (III):

{RO[CH₂O]_(u)[(CH₂)_(x)CH(R′)(CH₂)_(y)(CH₂)_(z)O]_(v)[CH₂CH₂O]_(w)}₃PO  Formula(III);

and combinations thereof, wherein:

R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms;

u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to60;

x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to13;

R′ represents hydrogen, alkyl, the sum of x+y+z being ?0. The numbers u,v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on amolecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree ofalkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopiclevel they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.

In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is linear or branched, acyclic orcyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted orunsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C₆₋₄₀ alkyl oralkenyl group or a C₁₋₄₀ alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a C₈₋₂₂alkyl or alkenyl group or a C₄₋₁₈ alkyl phenyl group, more preferably aC₁₂₋₁₈ alkyl group or alkenyl group or a C₆₋₁₆ alkyl phenyl group; u, v,w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20,more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from5 to 15;

x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a numberfrom 0 to 8.

In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the R group of thephosphate esters, the more irritating to the skin and the less solublein water the phosphate ester becomes. In contrast, the higher the numberof carbon atoms in the R group, the milder to the skin and the thickerand more waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, for bestresults, R should have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Examples of alkylpolyglucosides are decyl glucoside and laurylglucoside.

Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in thepresent invention are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS SG®), Oleth-3phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 acid), Oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS N10 acid),and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOSCES) all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate estersare Cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat CC 100), Stearyl phosphate (Hostaphat CS120) from Clariant.

In the present invention, the at least one nonionic surfactant chosenfrom alkoylated fatty alcohols can be employed in the composition of thepresent invention in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 20% byweight, such as from about 0.5% to about 18% by weight, or such as fromabout 1% to about 15% by weight, or such as from about 1.5% to about12%, or such as from about 2% to about 10% by weight, preferably fromabout 2.25% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 2.5% to about6% by weight, and most preferably from about 2.5% to about 5% by weight,based on the weight of the composition as a whole, including all rangesand subranges within these ranges.

In certain embodiments, the at least one nonionic surfactant chosen fromalkoylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates is selected fromPPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate,and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amountof about 1%, 2%, 2.25%, o 2.5%, 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%,4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, or 5.5% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.

Quaternary Ammonium Compound

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise atleast one quaternary ammonium compound. This compound may be in the formof a cationic polymer or in the form of a quaternary ammonium salt.

The quaternary ammonium compound may be chosen from cationic associativepolymers comprising, in their structure, a pendent or terminalhydrophobic chain, for example of alkyl or alkenyl type, containing from10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The quaternary ammonium compound of the compositions can also be chosenfrom, for example:

(1) homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylicesters or amides, examples of which are:

copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternizedwith dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the productsold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,

the copolymers of acrylamide and ofmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example,in EP 80 976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CibaGeigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniummethosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,

quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkylacrylate or acrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under thename GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT755, or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937,

dimethylaminoethyl acrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidoneterpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 bythe company ISP,

vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold, forexample, under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylami nopropylmethacrylamidecopolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by thecompany ISP, and crosslinked polymers ofmethacryloyloxy(C₁-C₄)alkyltri(C₁-C₄)alkylammonium salts such as thepolymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl acrylatequaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamidewith dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, thehomo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compoundcontaining olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide. In atleast one embodiment, a crosslinkedacrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer(20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50 percent byweight of the copolymer in mineral oil can be used. This dispersion issold under the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the company Ciba. In someembodiments, a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchloride homopolymer containing about 50 percent by weight of thehomopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used. Thesedispersions are sold under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96by the company Ciba.

Other examples are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternaryammonium groups, such as the polymers sold under the names JR (JR 400,JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union CarbideCorporation.

(2) copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with awater-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxymethyl-,hydroxyethyl- or hydroxy-propylcelluloses grafted, for instance, with amethacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.These are sold under the name CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by thecompany National Starch.

(3) non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containingtrialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are sold, for example,under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUARC162 by the company Meyhall.

(4) polymers of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene orhydroxyalkylene radicals.

(5) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, bypolycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, adianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, abis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkylhalide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction ofa difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, abis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, anepihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; thecrosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides canbe alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function,they can be quaternized. Exemplary mention may be made of the adipicacid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold underthe name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of at least one polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondaryamine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid andsaturated C₃-C₈ aliphatic dicarboxylic acids. The molar ratio betweenthe polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1to 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted withepichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to thesecondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold, for example, under the nameHERCOSETT 57, PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules.

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and of dialkyldiallylammonium,such as for example: dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer soldunder the name MERQUAT® 100 and MERQUAT® 280 by the company Nalco (andits homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymersof diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under thename MERQUAT® 550.

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers.

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers; examples that may be mentionedinclude the products MIRAPOL A 15, MIRAPOL AD1, MIRAPOL AZ1 and MIRAPOL175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, forinstance the products sold under the names LUVIQUAT FC 905, FC 550 andFC 370 by the company BASF.

(11) vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers, such as partially hydrolysedvinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamide)s.

(12) cationic polyurethane derivatives, for example those of elasticnature formed from the reaction:

(a1) of at least one cationic unit resulting from at least one tertiaryor quaternary amine bearing at least two reactive functions containinglabile hydrogen,

(a2) of at least one mixture of at least two different nonionic unitsbearing at least two reactive functions containing labile hydrogen, forinstance chosen from hydroxyl groups, primary or secondary amine groups,and thiol groups, and

(b) of at least one compound comprising at least two isocyanatefunctions.

(13) Other quaternary ammonium compound that may be used in the contextof the disclosure include, for example, cationic proteins or cationicprotein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines,polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitinderivatives.

Particularly useful quaternary ammonium compound in the presentinvention include, but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4,polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28,polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51,polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54,polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57,polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60,polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65,polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70,polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75,polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78,polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81,polyquaternium-82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85,polyquaternium-86, polyquaternium-87, polyquaternium-90,polyquaternium-91, polyquaternium-92, polyquaternium-94, and guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compound of the presentinvention include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 (Polyquaternium-67) availablefrom AMERCHOL; POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30Mhydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers (polyquaternium 10) available fromAMERCHOL; JAGUAR C® 13-S, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,available from Rhodia; and MERQUAT® 100 and 280, a dimethyl dialkylammonium chloride (polyquaternium 6) available from Nalco.

In other embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound may be chosenfrom a quaternary ammonium salt and a quaternary diammonium salt.

Suitable examples of quaternary ammonium salts are tetraalkylammoniumchlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium oralkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group containsapproximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particularbehenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride,cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride,or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammoniummethosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-ammonium methosulfate ordistearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly,palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride orstearamidopropyl-dimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, soldunder the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

Other types of quaternary ammonium salts for use according to theinvention are quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, di- ortriquaternary ammonium salts, and quaternary ammonium salts containingone or more ester functions.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentionedinclude:

those corresponding to the general formula below:

in which the groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different,represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at leastone of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group containing from 8 to 30carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphaticgroups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen,nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, forexample, from C1-30 alkyl, C1-30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-30alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkylacetate andC1-30 hydroxyalkyl; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides,phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl-or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salt, those that are preferred are, on theone hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammoniumor alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group containsapproximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particularbehenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium,cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, onthe other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, thestearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, thestearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or thestearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under thename Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferredto use the chloride salts of these compounds;

quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of theformula below:

in which R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenylgroup containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkylgroup, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is ananion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates,acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates oralkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups each preferablycomprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R12and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groupscomprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acidderivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogenatom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75by the company Rewo;

quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of thefollowing formula:

in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interruptedby one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkylradical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group(R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N—(CH2)3, R16a, R1m, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21,which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and analkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anionselected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates andmethyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P,available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT,available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, suchas those of the formula below:

in which:

R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl ordihydroxyalkyl groups;

R23 is selected from:

the group

groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturatedC1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

a hydrogen atom,

R25 is selected from:

the group

groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6hydrocarbon-based groups,

a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are selected fromlinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbonradicals;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers rangingfrom 2 to 6;

r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, andr2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from0 to 10;

X- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0,then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularlylinear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropylgroup, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may have12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbonatoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different,are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0or 1.

y is advantageously equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, equal 2 or3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or analkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it is possibleto use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derivedfrom an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anionthat is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to theinvention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XII) in which:

R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R23 is selected from:

the group

methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

a hydrogen atom,

R25 is selected from:

the group

a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-basedgroups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturatedC13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds such as thediacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,triacyloxyethylmethylammonium andmonoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methylsulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferablycontain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from aplant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound containsseveral acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification oftriethanolamine, of triisopropanolamine, of an alkyldiethanolamine or ofan alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, withC10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant oranimal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylatingagent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), adialkyl sulfate (preferably a dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methylmethanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin orglycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names DEHYQUART by thecompany Henkel, STEPANQUART by the company STEPAN NOXAMIUM by thecompany Ceca or REQOQUAT WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, amixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester saltswith a weight majority of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least oneester function that are described in patents U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,554 andU.S. Pat. No. 4,137,180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride soldby KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester functioncontain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one esterfunction, which can be used, it is preferred to usedipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

In preferred embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound of thepresent invention is chosen from polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10,polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

In other preferred embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound of thepresent invention is chosen from polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-67,and mixtures thereof.

In yet preferred embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound of thepresent invention is chosen from polyquaternium-6.

In the present invention, the quaternary ammonium compound may beemployed in the composition of the present invention in an amount offrom about 0% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% toabout 8% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight,preferably from about 0.75% to about 4%, preferably from about 1% toabout 3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition as a whole,including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

In certain embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound is selectedfrom Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-10, and Polyquaternium-67, and isemployed in the composition of the present invention in an amount ofabout 0.5%, or about 1%, or about 1.25%, or about 1.5%, or about 1.75%,or about 2%, or about 2.25%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.75%, or about 3%,or about 3.25%, or about 3.5%, or about 3.75%, or about 4%, or about4.25%, or about 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.

In other embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound is not present inthe inventive composition.

Silicone Compounds

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic composition of thepresent invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear orbranched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organicgroups, having a viscosity from 5×10⁻⁶ to 2.5 m²/s at 25 degreescentigrade, and preferably 1×10⁻⁵ to 1 m²/s.

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention can beprovided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, inparticular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodifiedpolysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen frompoly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's“Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They canbe volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen fromthose having a boiling point of between 60 degrees centigrade and 260degrees centigrade, and more particularly still from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferablyfrom 4 to 5 silicon atoms. They are, for example,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name VolatileSilicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone®7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixturesthereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of thedimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ3109, sold by Union Carbide, having the formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes withorganic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol(50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andoxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 siliconatoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25degrees centigrade An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold inparticular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.Silicones coming within this category are also described in the paperpublished in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27-32,Todd and Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes,polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified withthe organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes,among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes havingtrimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at25 degrees centigrade according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes, without impliedlimitation, of the following commercial products:

the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils soldby Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;

the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 having aviscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;

the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SFseries (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanolend groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oilsof the 48 series from Rhodia.

Mention may also be made, in this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, ofthe products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 byGoldschmidt, which are polydi(C₁-C₂₀)alkylsiloxanes.

The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention arein particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxaneshaving high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can bechosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes,methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with theinvention are mixtures, such as:

the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at thechain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclicpolydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as theproduct Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;

the mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and of a cyclic silicone,such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric; thisproduct is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having anumber-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and moreparticularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of a gum SE 30defined above having a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with aviscosity of 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15 percentof gum SE 30 and 85 percent of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with theinvention are crosslinked siloxane systems including the followingunits:

R₂SiO_(2/2),R₃SiO_(1/2),RSiO_(3/2) and SiO_(4/2)

in which R represents an alkyl having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Amongthese products, those that are particularly preferred are those in whichR denotes a lower C₁-C₄alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under thename Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are silicones ofdimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicatetype, sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037by Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with theinvention are silicones as defined above comprising, in their structure,one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodifiedsilicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particularpolydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by theabovementioned organo functional groups.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from linear and/orbranched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes andpolydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10⁻⁵ to5×10⁻² m²/s at 25 degrees centigrade

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentionedinclude the products sold under the following names:

Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the productsPN1000 and PH1000;

certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Mention may be made, among the organomodified silicones, ofpolyorganosiloxanes comprising:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprisingC₆-C₂₄ alkyl groups, such as the products named dimethicone copolyolsold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L7500, L 77 and L 711 by Union Carbide, and the (C₁₂)alkyl methiconecopolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products soldunder the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or theproducts sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by DowCorning. The substituted amino groups are in particular C₁-C₄ aminoalkylgroups;

alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name SiliconeCopolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 byGoldschmidt.

The silicone compounds of the present invention can also be chosen fromdimethicone copolyols.

Dimethicone Copolyol, as used herein, includes a polymer made fromdimethicone and polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene.

Suitable examples of dimethicone copolyols include DimethiconePEG-Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate,Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, DimethiconePEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, DimethiconePEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone,PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone,PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone,PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone,PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone,PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

Dimethicone copolyols can also be described as silicone surfactants oras emulsifiers.

Thus, the dimethicone copolyol employed according to the invention isadvantageously an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenatedpolydimethyl(methyl)siloxane. Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol,of those corresponding to the following formula (I):

in which:

Ri, R2 and R3 represent, independently of one another, a C!-C6 alkylradical or a —(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least oneRb R2 or R3 radical not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, aC!-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are notequal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; yis an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound offormula (I), R═R3=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R4 is in particular ahydrogen.

Mention may be made, as examples of compounds of formula (I), of thecompounds of formula (II):

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

Mention may also be made, as examples of silicone compounds of formula(I), of the compounds of formula (III):

HO—(CH2CH20)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH  (III)

in which A′ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those sold under the namesDC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning; and KF-6013,KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise asdimethicone copolyol one of those sold under the names KF-6013, KF-6015,KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.

In another embodiment, the dimethicone copolyol in the compositions ofthe invention is chosen from PEG-12 dimethicone commercially availablefrom Dow Corning under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID.

The dimethicone copolyols in the compositions of the invention can alsobe chosen from at least one C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

This C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is moreparticularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl(C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound ofthe following formula (IV):

wherein:

-   -   PE represents from groups (—C2H40)x-(C3H60)y-R, wherein R is        chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from        1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and        y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are        not simultaneously equal to 0; and    -   m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, n is an integer ranging        from 10 to 200, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, p is an        integer ranging from 7 to 21, and q is an integer ranging from 0        to 4.

Preferably, R is a hydrogen atom, m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, o is an integer ranging from 1to 30, p is 15, and q is 3. In a preferred embodiment the at least oneC8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosenfrom cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under thename Abil® EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

In one embodiment, the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyldimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed underthe name Abil® EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt (also known as cetylPEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone).

In another embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise cetylPEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone as C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol and amixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer asorganopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the inventioncomprise a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethiconecrosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing ahydrophilic chain, a PEG-10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, and acetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone as C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

Thus, in certain embodiments, the dimethicone copolyol in the presentinvention is chosen from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenatedpolydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenatedpolymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane, and mixturesthereof.

In certain other embodiments, the dimethicone copolyol is chosen fromDimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, DimethiconePEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone,PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone,PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the dimethiconecopolyol is preferably PEG-12 dimethicone,

The silicone compounds are generally present in the composition in aproportion as active material (AM) ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, morepreferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, even more preferablyfrom about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the silicone compound is chosen from dimethiconecopolyol and is employed in the compositions of the present invention inan amount of about 0.1%, or about 0.25%, or about 0.5%, or about 0.75%,or about 1% by weight, or about 1.1%, or about 1.2%, or about 1.3%, orabout 1.4% by weight, or about 1.5% by weight, or about 1.6%, or about1.7%, or about 1.8%, or about 1.9% by weight, or about 2% by weight, orabout 3% by weight, or about 4% by weight, or about 5% by weight, basedon the total weight of the composition.

Thickening Agents

The compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosurecomprise at least one component chosen from thickening agents, alsoreferred to interchangeably herein as thickeners or rheology modifiers.Thickening agents are generally used to modify the viscosity or rheologyof compositions. Non-limiting examples of thickening agents that may beused according to various embodiments of the disclosure include thoseconventionally used in cosmetics, such as polymers of natural origin andsynthetic polymers. For example, nonionic, anionic, cationic,amphiphilic, and amphoteric polymers, and other known rheologymodifiers, such as cellulose-based thickeners, may be chosen.

The thickening agents may be chosen from, for example, hydrophilicthickeners, for example cellulose polymers and gums. As used herein, theterm “hydrophilic thickener” is meant to indicate that the thickeningagent is soluble or dispersible in water. Non-limiting examples ofhydrophilic thickeners include modified or unmodified carboxyvinylpolymers, such as the products sold under the name CARBOPOL (CTFA name:carbomer) by Goodrich, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic ormethacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such asthe products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by AlliedColloid, ULTRAHOLD 8® by Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylates and polymethacrylatessuch as the products sold under the names LUBRAJEL and NORGEL byGuardian, or under the name HISPAJEL by Hispano Chimica, and polyacrylicacids of SYNTHALEN K type, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acidand of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such asunder the names RETEN® by Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate such assold under the name DARVAN 7® by Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts ofpolyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as sold under the name HYDAGEN F® byHenkel, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, forinstance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) such as soldby Clariant under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS (CTFA name: ammoniumpolyacryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers ofacrylamide and of AMPS, e.g. in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion,such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL™ 305 (CTFA name:Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the nameSIMULGEL™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltauratecopolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC, polyacrylicacid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, associative polymers,for instance PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer such as sold underthe name ACULYN™ 46 by Rohm & Haas, steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymersuch as sold under the name RHEOLATE® FX 1100 by Elementis), as well asmixtures thereof.

Other exemplary hydrophilic thickeners include associative polymers. Asused herein, the term “associative polymer” is intended to mean anyamphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chainand at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers inaccordance various exemplary embodiments may be anionic, cationic,nonionic or amphoteric. By way of example, associative polymers whichmay be chosen include those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit andat least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, such as those in which thehydrophilic unit is constituted of an ethylenic unsaturated anionicmonomer, such as a vinylcarboxylic acid or an acrylic acid, amethacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and in which the fatty-chainallyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂═C(R′)CH₂OB_(n)R  (I)

in which R′ is chosen from H or CH₃, B is chosen from an ethyleneoxyradical, n is zero or is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 100,and R is chosen from a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl,arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals containing from 8 to30 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 12 to 18carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of associative anionic polymers that may also bechosen include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unitof olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least onehydrophobic unit exclusively of (C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl ester of unsaturatedcarboxylic acid type. Cationic associative polymers that may be choseninclude, but are not limited to, quaternized cellulose derivatives andpolyacrylates containing amine side groups.

Exemplary non-ionic associative polymers include celluloses modifiedwith groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instancehydroxyethyl celluloses modified with groups comprising at least onefatty chain, such as alkyl groups, e.g. C₈-C₂₂ alkyl groups, arylalkyland alkylaryl groups, such as cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, also knownas Natrosol® Plus (sold by the company Ashland); Bermocoll EHM 100 (soldby the company Berol Nobel), Amercell Polymer HM-1500® sold by Amerchol(hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a polyethylene glycol (15)nonylphenyl ether group, sold by the company Amerchol), cellulosesmodified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, guars suchas hydroxypropyl guar, optionally modified with groups comprising atleast one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, for example JAGUAR®XC-95/3 (C14 alkyl chain, sold by the company Rhodia Chimie); Esaflor HM22 (C22 alkyl chain, sold by the company Lamberti); RE210-18 (C14 alkylchain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain, sold by the company Rhodia Chimie),copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers,for instance Antaron® or Ganex® V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecenecopolymers); Antaron® or Ganex® V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosenecopolymers), sold by the company I.S.P., copolymers of C₁-C₆ alkylmethacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising atleast one fatty chain, and copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates oracrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fattychain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/laurylmethacrylate copolymer; polymers with an aminoplast ether skeletoncontaining at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® nonionicassociative water phase thickeners sold by the company Southern ClayProducts, Inc.

Associative polyurethanes may also be chosen in various exemplary andnon-limiting embodiments. These are nonionic block copolymers comprisingin the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature,and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/orcycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences. Associative polyurethanescomprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containingfrom C₆ to C₃₀ carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, thehydrocarbon-based chains optionally being pendent chains or chains atthe end of a hydrophilic block. For example, it is possible for one ormore pendent chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer maycomprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilicblock. The associative polyurethanes may be arranged in triblock ormultiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at the each end ofthe chain (for example, triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic centralblock) or distributed both at the ends and within the chain (forexample, multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graftpolymers or starburst polymers. For example, the associativepolyurethanes may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic blockis a polyoxyethylene chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenegroups.

By way of non-limiting example, associative polymers of the polyurethanepolyether type that may be used include the polymer C₁₆-OE₁₂₀-C₁₆ fromServo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100), which is a moleculecontaining a urethane function and having a weight-average molecularweight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Nuvis® FX 1100 (Europeanand US INCI name “Steareth-100/PEG-136/HMDI Copolymer” sold by thecompany Elementis Specialties), and also Acrysol RM 184® (sold by thecompany Rohm and Haas); Elfacos® T210® (C12-C14 alkyl chain) andElfacos® T212® (C18 alkyl chain) sold by the company Akzo. Furtherexemplary associative polymers that may be chosen include RHEOLATE® 205containing a urea function, sold by Rheox, or RHEOLATE® 208 or 204, orRHEOLATE® FX1100 from Elementis. The product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haascontaining a C₂₀ alkyl chain with a urethane bond, sold at a solidscontent of 20% in water, may also be used.

In yet further exemplary embodiments, solutions or dispersions of thesepolymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium, may bechosen. Examples of such polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035and SER AD 1070 from Servo Delden, and RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 andRHEOLATE® 244 sold by Rheox. Further examples include the productsACULYN™ 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also ACRYSOL RM 184 or ACRYSOL 44from Rohm & Haas, and BORCHIGEL LW 44 from Borchers.

In at least one exemplary embodiment, the at least one thickening agentis chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at leastone monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids possessingα,β-ethylenically unsaturated groups or their esters, with at least onemonomer (b) possessing ethylenically unsaturated groups and comprising ahydrophobic group. Such copolymers may exhibit emulsifying properties.

As used herein, the term “copolymers” is intended to mean bothcopolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained frommore than two types of monomers, such as, for example, terpolymersobtained from three types of monomers. The chemical structure of thecopolymers comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least onehydrophobic unit. The expression “hydrophobic unit” or “hydrophobicunit” is understood to mean a radical possessing a saturated orunsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain whichcomprises at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 10 to 30 carbonatoms, as a further example from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and as yet afurther example from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In certain exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, the thickeningcopolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from thepolymerization of:

(1) at least one monomer of formula (II):

CH2═CH(R1)COOH  (II)

wherein R₁ is chosen from H or CH₃ or C₂H₅, providing acrylic acid,methacrylic acid, or ethacrylic acid monomers, and

(2) at least one monomer of (C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl ester of unsaturatedcarboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (III):

CH2═CH(R2)COOR3  (III)

wherein R₂ is chosen from H or CH₃ or C₂H₅, providing acrylate,methacrylate or ethacrylate units, R₃ denoting a C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl radical,such as a C₁₂-C₂₂ alkyl radical.

Non-limiting examples of (C₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylicacids are for example chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate,decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and thecorresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearylmethacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecylmethacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

Additionally, crosslinked thickening polymers may be chosen according tofurther exemplary embodiments. For example, such polymers may be chosenfrom polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomerscomprising:

(1) acrylic acid,

(2) an ester of formula (III) described above, in which R₂ is chosenfrom H or CH₃, R₃ denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbonatoms, and

(3) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizablepolyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate andmethylenebisacrylamide.

For example, acrylate/C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name:Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products soldby Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN™ TR1, PEMULEN™ TR2, CARBOPOL®1382 and CARBOPOL® EDT 2020 may be chosen.

In further embodiments, the at least one thickening agent may be chosenfrom nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenicallyunsaturated monomers of the ester and/or amide type. For example, theproducts sold under the names CYANAMER P250 by the company CYTEC(polyacrylamide), methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylatecopolymers (such as PMMA MBX-8C by the company US COSMETICS), butylmethacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (such as ACRYLOID B66 by thecompany RHOM HMS), and polymethyl methacrylates (BPA 500 by the companyKOBO) may be chosen.

In yet further embodiments, the at least one thickening agent chosenfrom polymers of natural origin may include, for example, thickeningpolymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guargums, optionally modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups;biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum(also known as sclerotium gum) or xanthan gum; gums derived from plantexudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth,carrageenan gum, agar gum and carob gum, ceratonia siliqua gum andcyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum; pectins; alginates; starches;hydroxy(C1-C6)alkylcelluloses and carboxy(C1-C6)alkylcelluloses.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic, unmodified guar gums that may be usedin various embodiments include Guargel D/15 (Noveon); Vidogum GH 175(Unipectine), Meypro-Guar 50 and JAGUAR® C (Meyhall/Rhodia Chimie).Non-limiting examples of nonionic modified guar gums include Jaguar®HP8, HP60, HP120, DC 293 and HP 105 (Meyhall/Rhodia Chimie); andGalactasol 4H4FD2 (Ashland).

Further examples of useful thickening agents include scleroglucans, forexample, Actigum™ CS from Sanofi Bio Industries; Amigel from AlbanMuller International, and also the glyoxal-treated scleroglucansdescribed in FR2633940); xanthan gums, for instance Keltrol®, Keltrol®T, Keltrol® Tf, Keltrol® Bt, Keltrol® Rd, Keltrol® Cg (NutrasweetKelco), Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® H (Rhodia Chimie); starchderivatives, for instance Primogel® (Avebe); hydroxyethylcelluloses suchas Cellosize® QP3L, QP4400H, QP30000H, HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10(Amerchol), Natrosol™ 250HHR®, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, HX(Hercules) and Tylose® H1000 (Hoechst); hydroxypropylcelluloses, forinstance Klucel® EF, H, LHF, MF and G (Ashland);carboxymethylcelluloses, for instance Blanose® 7M8/SF, refined 7M, 7LF,7MF, 9M31F, 12M31XP, 12M31P, 9M31XF, 7H, 7M31, 7H3SXF (Ashland),Aquasorb® A500 (Hercules), Ambergum® 1221 (Hercules), Cellogen® HP810A,HP6HS9 (Montello) and Primellose® (Avebe).

Exemplary modified nonionic guar gums may, for example, be modified withC1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Exemplary hydroxyalkyl groups may includehydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

Guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example,be prepared by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, such as forexample propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gummodified with hydroxypropyl groups. The hydroxyalkylation ratio, whichcorresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed to thenumber of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum, mayin at least certain exemplary embodiments vary from about 0.4 to about1.2.

Exemplary and non-limiting nonionic guar gums, optionally modified withhydroxyalkyl groups, include those sold under the trade names JAGUAR®HP8, JAGUAR® HP60 and JAGUAR® HP120, JAGUAR® DC 293 and JAGUAR® HP 105by the company RHODIA CHIMIE (RHODIA CHIMIE), and under the nameGALACTASOL™ 4H4FD2 by the company ASHLAND.

Guar gums may also be modified with a quaternary ammonium group. Guargums modified as such include Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, alsoknown under the tradename JAGUAR® C-13S (RHODIA CHIMIE).

Exemplary and non-limiting celluloses include hydroxyethylcelluloses andhydroxypropylcelluloses. The products sold under the names KLUCEL EF,KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by the company ASHLAND,CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG-10 by the company AMERCHOL, may be chosen invarious embodiments.

Exemplary, non-limiting thickening polysaccharides may be chosen fromglucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those derived, forexample, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such asgolden pea, tubers such as potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin,glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof(methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses),mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin,chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans,pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gumsarabic, gums tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums,galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives(hydroxypropylguar), and mixtures thereof.

Further, exemplary thickening agents include silicas, optionallyhydrophobic; clays, such as montmorillonite, modified clays such as thebentones for example, stearalkonium hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite;polysaccharide alkyl ethers (optionally with the alkyl group having from1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, as afurther example from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and as yet a further examplefrom 1 to 3 carbon atoms).

Thickening agents of the present disclosure may also include rheologymodifiers. In accordance with the disclosure, rheology modifiers may, invarious exemplary embodiments, be chosen from Polyacrylamide(and)C13-14Isoparaffin(and)Laureth-7 (Sepigel™ 305 from Seppic), Hydroxypropyl Guar(JAGUAR® HP105 from Rhodia), Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum(Supercol U Guar Gum from Ashland), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl AcrylateCrosspolymer (Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer from Lubrizol),Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Permulen™ TR-1 fromLubrizol), Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (Sepimax Zen from Seppic),Sclerotium Gum (Amigum from Alban Muller), Xanthan Gum(and)CeratoniaSiliqua Gum (Nomcort CG from Nisshin Oil Lio), Hydroxypropyl Guar(Jaguar® HP8 from Rhodia), Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride(Jaguar® C-13-S from Rhodia), Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (Natrosol® 250 MRfrom Ashland).

When anionic thickening agents are used, they are generally neutralizedbefore being included in or as they are added to the compositions of thedisclosure. Such anionic thickening agents may be neutralized byemploying traditional neutralizing agents such as alkanolamines, forexample, monoethanolamine and diethanolamine; aminomethyl propanol;basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine; and ammoniumcompounds and their salts.

Cationic thickening agents of the disclosure may also be chosen fromnon-associative cationic polymers such as dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate homopolymers quaternized with methyl chloride ordimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with methylchloride and acrylamide. Among the homopolymers of this type, mentionmay be made of methacryloylethyl trimethyl ammonium chloridehomopolymer, INCI name: polyquaternium-37).

Another suitable example of a cationic thickening agent is a productknown by the INCI name of polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer (Carbopol® AquaCC, from the company, Lubrizol).

It is contemplated that, in at least certain exemplary and non-limitingembodiments, the thickening agents of the disclosure may includecompounds such as gellifying and viscosity modifying agents. Forexample, compositions of the disclosure may employ at least onewater-soluble resin such as polyethylene oxide having a molecular weightranging from 100,000 to 10,000,000. Examples of such polyethylene oxidesinclude, but not limited to, Polyox water-soluble resins manufactured byDow under the INCI names of PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-14M, PEG-23M,PEG-45M, PEG-90M, PEG-160M, and PEG-180M. PEG-90M is known under thetradename of Polyox™ WSR 301, and PEG-45M is known under the tradenamePolyox™ WSR 60k.

The amounts of thickening agents in the compositions of the disclosuremay range from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or such as from about0.5% to about 15% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 10% byweight, or such as from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

Water

The compositions of the present invention contain water. Water can bepresent in the amount of about 95%, 92%, 90%, 89%, 88%, 87%, 85%, 84%,83%, 82%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5% by weight or less,relative the total weight of the compositions. Additionally, water canbe present in the compositions of the present invention in the amount offrom about 20% to about 95% by weight, or from about 50% to about 90% byweight, or from about 60% to about 88% by weight, relative to the weightof the compositions.

In other embodiments, water can be present in the compositions of thepresent invention in the amount of at least about 95%, 92%, 90%, 89%,88%, 87%, 85%, 84%, 83%, 82%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%by weight or less, based on the total weight of the compositions.

Cosmetically Acceptable Solvent

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise at leastone cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising organic solvents chosenfrom volatile and nonvolatile organic solvents.

Suitable organic solvents are typically C2-C8 alcohols, glycols,polyols, polyol ethers, glycol ethers, glycerin, hydrocarbons, oils, andmixtures thereof. Examples of organic solvents include, but are notlimited to, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethylalcohol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol,and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable organic solvents include glycol ethers, for example,ethylene glycol and its ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether,ethylene glycol monopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether,propylene glycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethylether, propylene glycol monopropyl ether, propylene glycol monobutylether, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such asdiethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycolmonobutyl ether, anddipropylene glycol n-butyl ether. Glycol ethers are commerciallyavailable from The Dow Chemical Company under the DOW E-series and DOWP-series. One preferred glycol ether for use in the present invention isdipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, known under the tradename of DOWANOL™DPnB.

Suitable organic solvents also include synthetic oils and hydrocarbonoils include mineral oil, petrolatum, and C₁₀-C₄₀ hydrocarbons which maybe aliphatic (with a straight, branched or cyclic chain), aromatic,arylaliphatic such as paraffins, iso-paraffins, isododecanes, aromatichydrocarbons, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenatedpolydecene, polydecene, squalene, petrolatum and isoparaffins, siliconeoils, fluoro oils and mixtures, thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” refers to oilmainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen,nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms. Representative examples ofhydrocarbon-based oils include oils containing from 8 to 16 carbonatoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known asisoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane.

Examples of silicone oils that may be useful in the present inventioninclude nonvolatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS),polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendentand/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, anddimethicones or phenyltrimethicones with a viscosity of less than orequal to 100 cSt.

Other representative examples of silicone oils that may be useful in thepresent invention include volatile silicone oils such as linear orcyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ÿ centistokes(8×10-6 m 2/s) and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms andin particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionallycomprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.Specific examples include dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane anddodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of fluoro oils that may be suitable for use inthe present invention include volatile fluro oils such asnonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoro-methylcyclopentane.

The amount of the organic solvent/compound present in the compositionsof the present invention can range from about 0.5% to about 60%, or fromabout 0.5% to about 40%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about0.5% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about15%, by weight, or preferably from about 1% to about 10%, by weight, ormore preferably from about 1.5% to about 8%, by weight, or from about 2%to about 6%, by weight, including all ranges and subrangesthere-between, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the amount of the organic solvent/compound presentin the compositions of the present invention is at about 2%, about 2.5%,about 3%, about 3.5%, about 4%, about 4.5%, about 5%, about 5.5% orabout 6% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between,relative to the total weight of the composition.

In certain embodiments, compositions of the present invention compriseboth water and organic solvents/compounds selected from volatile organicsolvents, non-volatile organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred examples of organic solvents/compounds include volatileorganic solvents such as C2 to C4 mono-alcohols, such as ethanol,isopropyl alcohol, butanol, polyols such as C2-C6 glycols e.g.,propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol,glycerol, isododecane, volatile polyol ethers, volatile glycol ethers,acetone, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Incertain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount of volatile organicsolvent/compound does not exceed 55% by weight, relative to the weightof the composition of the present invention.

In other certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount ofvolatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 20% by weight,relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

In yet other certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount ofvolatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 10% by weight,relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

In preferred embodiments, the amount of volatile organicsolvent/compound does not exceed 6% by weight, relative to the weight ofthe composition of the present invention.

Other preferred examples of organic solvents/compounds includenonvolatile organic solvents such as hydrocarbons such as straight chainhydrocarbons, nonvolatile silicone oils, mineral oil, polybutene,hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene,squalene, petrolatum, isoparaffins, nonvolatile glycol ethers, andmixtures, thereof.

In certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount of nonvolatileorganic solvent/compound does not exceed 40% by weight, or does notexceed 20% by weight, or does not exceed 10% by weight, relative to theweight of the composition of the present invention.

In certain embodiments of the present invention, the at least oneorganic solvent is chosen from ethanol.

Intermediate Agent

The intermediate agent of the present invention may be any shampoo orconditioner composition. Preferably, the intermediate agent has aneutral pH.

Auxiliary Ingredients

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise anyauxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration,selected, for example, from conditioning agents, natural and syntheticoils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelatingagents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, andmixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art toadjust the nature and amount of the additives present in thecompositions in accordance with the invention such that the desiredcosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not therebyaffected.

pH

In certain embodiments, the neutralizing agent is used in an amount suchthat the pH of the compositions of the invention is from about pH 2 toless than about 7, such as from about pH 2.5 to about 6.5, or preferablyfrom about pH 3 to about 6, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about5, or even more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4, including allranges and subranges there-between.

In some embodiments, the neutralizing agent is used in an amount suchthat the pH of the compositions of the invention is from about 2 to 6,including all ranges and subranges there-between.

In other embodiments, the neutralizing agent is used in an amount suchthat the pH of the compositions of the invention is from about 2 to 4,including all ranges and subranges there-between.

In certain other embodiments, the pH of the compositions of theinvention is about 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5.

pH can be adjusted with acidic agents other than the thiol-basedreducing agents of the invention such as mineral acids, chlorhydric acidor phosphoric acid, or with basic agents such as mineral basic agents asammonia, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides or organic basic agentssuch as alcanolamines.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modifiedin all instances by the term “about” which encompasses up to +/−0.2. Forexample, a pH value of about 7.0 refers to 7+/−0.2.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form ofan emulsion, for example, oil-in-water emulsion and water-in-oilemulsion.

In other embodiments, the composition of the present invention has aviscosity of from about 60 M2 to about 70 M2, preferably from about 62M2 to about 68 M2, more preferably from about 62 M2 to about 65 M2,including all ranges and subranges therebetween, as measured by aRhéomat RM180 at 25° C.

In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the presentinvention has a viscosity of from about 62 M2 to about 65 M2 and a pHranging from about pH 2 to about 6.

In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present inventionhas a viscosity of from about 62 M2 to about 65 M2 and a pH ranging fromabout 2 to about 4.

All numbers expressing viscosity values are to be understood as beingmodified in all instances by the term “about” which encompasses up to+/−0.2. For example, a viscosity value of about 64.2 M2 refers to64.2+/−0.2 M2.

In preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is ahair straightening composition.

The composition of the present invention is stable such that thestraightening efficacy of the composition is preserved until thecomposition is ready to be used. In addition, the compositions of thepresent invention did not exhibit phase separation.

Methods of Making

The compositions of the present invention are made by combining at leastone reducing agent, at least one neutralizing agent, at least two fattysubstances, at least one alkoylated fatty alcohol, optionally at leastone quaternary ammonium compound, and water.

In one embodiment, the method of making the compositions of the presentinvention comprises the steps of:

(1) combining:

(a) at least one thiol-based compound chosen from thiolactic acid,thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent; and

(c) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition; and

(2) mixing (a) to (c) in order to form a composition having a pH rangingfrom about 2 to less than 7.

In one embodiment, the invention also concerns a process of shaping oraltering the shape or caring of hair. The process comprises the stepsof:

(1) applying onto the hair, a composition containing:

(a) at least one thiol-based compound chosen from thiolactic acid,thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent, preferably selected fromaminomethyl propanol, monoethanolamine, sodium hydroxide, and mixturesthereof;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising:

-   -   i. from about 1% to about 60% by weight of a first fatty        substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of        fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes,        mineral oils, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and        mixtures thereof; and    -   ii. from about 5% to about 10% by weight of a second fatty        substance selected from fatty alcohols;

(d) from about 2.5% to about 6% by weight of at least onealkyl(ether)phosphate selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture ofCeteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetylphosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less than 7.

(2) brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;

(3) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40° C., preferably ata temperature of from about 40° C. to about 250° C., or from about 50°C. to about 250° C. or from about 60° C. to about 230° C. or from about60° C. to about 210° C. or from about 70° C. to about 200° C. or fromabout 70° C. to about 190° C., including all ranges and subrangestherebetween; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair,wherein when a smoothing action is employed, the heating action andsmoothing action are accomplished by use of a heating device such as aflat iron; and

(4) rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with anintermediate agent, followed by rinsing with water.

Preferably, before the composition in the process above is applied ontothe hair, the hair is first contacted with a shampoo and/or conditionerand then rinsed with water.

In certain embodiments, the intermediate agent in the process above is ashampoo or conditioner, preferably having a neutral pH.

In certain embodiments, the hair treated and processed according to theinvention is contacted with a neutralizing composition containing atleast one oxidizing agent. In some embodiments, the at least oneoxidizing agent can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts such aspersulphates, percarbonates, and perborates, urea peroxide, alkalinebromates, and polythionates. In some embodiments, hydrogen peroxide isused.

In some embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent may be present inan amount ranging from 0.1 to 50 percent by weight, such as from 1 to 20percent by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, when the at least one oxidizing agent is hydrogenperoxide, the composition described herein may comprise at least oneagent that stabilizes hydrogen peroxide. As examples of agents thatstabilize hydrogen peroxide, non-limiting mention may be made of thepyrophosphates of the alkali or alkaline-earth metals, the stannates ofthe alkali or alkaline-earth metals, and phenacetin or the salts ofacids and of oxyquinoline, such as oxyquinoline sulphate. In someembodiments, the at least one agent that stabilizes hydrogen peroxidemay be present in an amount ranging from 0.0001 to 5 percent by weight,such as from 0.01 to 2 percent by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition

In certain embodiments, the composition is allowed to remain (leave-ontime) on the keratin fibers for a pre-determined amount of time, forexample, from about 1 to about 60 minutes, or such as from about 1 toabout 45 minutes, or such as from about 1 to about 30 minutes, or suchas from about 5 to about 30 minutes, or such as at about 30 minutes, orsuch as at about 20 minutes, or such as at about 10 minutes. Thepre-determined amount of time is sufficient to achieve satisfactorystraightening or shaping or altering the shape of the keratin fiberssuch as hair on the human head.

In other embodiments, the composition is rinsed from the hair with waterbefore brushing the hair. The rinsed hair may also be subjected to adetangling or smoothing action before brushing the hair.

Suitable devices for detangling or brushing or smoothing the hairinclude a hair brush, comb, or heating flat iron. The smoothing ordetangling action on the hair may also include running the fingersthrough the hair.

The composition can also be applied onto the hair using an applicatordevice or with the hands or gloved hands.

A suitable applicator device is an applicator brush or applicator combor applicator spatula or a dispenser or applicator tip attached to thecontainer holding the composition.

Heat (at a temperature of at least 40° C.) can be applied to the hairwhile the smoothing action is performed on the hair. The heat source canbe chosen from a blow dryer, a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat lamp, aheat wand, or other similar devices.

In addition, independently of the embodiment use, the compositionpresent on the fibers or hair is left in place for a time, generally,from about 1 minute to about 60 minutes, such as from about 1 minute toabout 45 minutes, or such as from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, orsuch as from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or such as at about 30minutes, or such as of about 20 minutes or such as of about 10 minutes.

It has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the application ofthe composition onto the fibers results in satisfactory straightening ofhair.

The straightening effects obtained using the compositions and process ofthe present disclosure may also be durable or wash resistant.

The degree of straightening or frizz control or volume reduction of thehair may be evaluated by visually assessing the reduction in curlinessand/or waviness and/or frizziness and/or volume (spread or areaoccupied) of the hair after contacting the hair with the composition ofthe invention. Another type of evaluation for degree of straightening orvolume reduction can also involve measuring the length of the hair aswell as the width of the bulk of hair before and after contacting thehair with the composition.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the hair contactedwith the compositions of the invention did not feel as rough andvisually appeared to be more smooth, extended and straight compared tohair contacted with conventional or traditional straighteningcompositions.

The process of the present disclosure can impart to hair one or more of:straightening effects; manageability; frizz control; volume reduction orvolume control; styling effects; curling effects; texlaxing effects;improvement or retention of curl definition; humidity resistance; orimprovement of the appearance of hair.

The compositions of the present invention may be packaged in anysuitable container such as a tube, a jar or a bottle, a squeeze tube orsqueeze bottle. Additionally, an applicator device can be attached orconnected to the opening of the packaging/squeeze tube or bottle whereinthe applicator device is a brush or a comb with teeth such that the endsof the teeth have openings from which the composition of the inventioncan flow through and be applied directly onto the hair.

The composition of the present invention may also be provided ascomponent of a kit for shaping or altering the shape of hair wherein thekit can additionally contain other components such as an intermediateagent having a neutral pH chosen from a shampoo or a conditioner.

As used herein, the process and composition disclosed herein may be usedon the hair that has not been artificially dyed, pigmented or permed.

As used herein, the process and composition disclosed herein may be alsoused on the hair that has been artificially dyed, pigmented or permed.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forththe broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numericalvalues set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely aspossible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certainerrors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in theirrespective measurements. The following examples are intended toillustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result.

EXAMPLES

The following Examples are intended to be non-restrictive andexplanatory only, with the scope of the invention being defined by theclaims.

The ingredient amounts in the compositions/formulas described below areexpressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition/formula.

Example 1 A. Processes for Treating and Shaping or Altering the Shape ofHair (e.g., Straightening) and Assessments of Performance

These studies were conducted on curly or wavy hair swatches (virginhair, i.e., not chemically treated) using the compositions of theinvention (exemplified below). The process of treating and shaping oraltering the shape of hair or caring for the hair was performedaccording to a rinsing protocol (Process 1) and a non-rinsing protocol(Process 2).

For Process 1, the following steps were followed:

1. the hair was contacted with a shampoo (neutral pH);

2. the hair was rinsed with water and optionally, blow dried;

3. the inventive composition was applied onto the hair using anapplicator brush device (approximately 1 gram of the composition pergram of hair or approximately 300 grams per head of hair);

4. the inventive composition was allowed to remain on the hair forthirty minutes;

5. the inventive composition was rinsed off the hair;

6. the hair was brushed with a hair brush using 20 to 30 strokes;

7. the hair was smoothed and heated with a flat iron set at 230° C. andusing 10 strokes (or passes);

8. the hair was contacted with a shampoo and/or a conditioner (neutralpH);

9. the hair was rinsed with water (if shampoo is used in step 7, thenthis rinsing step can optionally, be followed by a step of contactingthe hair with a conditioner (neutral pH), and then rinsing with water);

10. the shampoo/rinse/optional conditioning/rinse cycle was repeated asmany times as desired.

For Process 2, the following steps were followed:

1. the hair was contacted with a shampoo (neutral pH);

2. the hair was rinsed with water and optionally, blow dried;

3. the inventive composition was applied onto the hair using anapplicator brush device (approximately 1 gram of the composition pergram of hair or approximately 300 grams per head of hair);

4. the inventive composition was allowed to remain on the hair forthirty minutes;

5. the hair was brushed with a hair brush using 20 to 30 strokes;

6. the hair was smoothed and heated with a flat iron set at 230° C. andusing 10 strokes (or passes);

7. the hair was contacted with a shampoo and/or a conditioner (neutralpH);

8. the hair was rinsed with water; (if shampoo is used in step 7, thenthis rinsing step can optionally, be followed by a step of contactingthe hair with a conditioner (neutral pH), and then rinsing with water);

9. the shampoo/rinse/optional conditioning/rinse cycle was repeated asmany times as desired.

Example 1 B. Method of Assessment of Performance Such as Straightening,Reduction of Frizziness and Volume of Hair

Hair swatches were visually assessed for the following attributes:reduction of the volume (width) of the hair (also indicative of thedegree of frizziness of and degree of discipline of the hair) and degreeof straightening or smoothing of the hair swatch. These attributes canalso be measured or assessed on a 1 to 4 scale, with 4 being thesmallest volume which indicates the greatest degree of smoothing orstraightening or lengthening of the hair, greatest reduction infrizziness or volume of the hair and greatest amount of discipline ofthe hair.

Example 2 Compositions

TABLE 1 Aqueous Compositions Formulas with different concentrations ofThiolactic acid in aqueous solutions having similar pH values: Formula 1Formula 2 Formula 3 pH value 3.51 3.54 3.51 % by weight thiolactic acid4 6 8 % by wt of sodium hydroxide to pH to pH to pH Straighteningperformance 3.0 3.5 4.0

Swatch evaluation was performed on curly or wavy hair swatches (virginhair, i.e., not chemically treated) in accordance with the assessmentmethod in Example 1B above. From the table above, it was found that atsimilar pH values, the degree of straightening increased as the level ofthiolactic acid increased.

TABLE 2 Gel Composition INCI US Formula A, % by weight AMINOMETHYLPROPANOL 2 THIOLACTIC ACID 8 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 CELLULOSE PCG-10(AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL) PEG-12 DIMETHICONE 2 WATER Q.S. to 100

TABLE 3 Gel Compositions Formula Formula Formula Formula B, % by C, % byD, % by E, % by weight weight weight weight INCI US pH = 3.51 pH = 3.54pH = 3.51 pH = 3.51 AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL 3 3 3 3 THIOLACTIC ACID 8 8 8 8HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 CELLOSIZE HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE PCG-10 (AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL) DIMETHICONE, 80% (and) 2 — — —AMODIMETHICONE, 20% KF 8020 (SHIN ET SU) DIMETHICONE — 2 — —AMODIMETHICONE IN — — 2 — EMULSION (57.5% ACTIVE) CYCLOPENTASILOXANE — —— 2 (85.3% BY WEIGHT) DIMETHICONOL (14.7% BY WEIGHT) WATER QS 100 QS 100QS 100 QS 100

The gel compositions above were each prepared according to the generalprocedure:

2. Heat water to about 70° C.

3. Add the cellulose material and keep the temperature at about 70° C.and agitate the mixture for 30 minutes.

4. Add the silicone material and mix for another 15 minutes at 70° C.

5. Cool to 25° C.

6. Add the neutralizing agent at 25° C. with agitation and then add thethiolactic acid.

7. Adjust the pH and check the viscosity.

The viscosity of the inventive composition was measured using theMettler RM 180 Rheomat, viscometer spindle #2, at 25° C. (uD=Units ofDeflection).

A viscosity measurement in M2 units ranging up from about 60 to 65 M2corresponded to a texture and consistency of a gel composition. The geltexture provided the benefits of ease of application of the compositioninto the hair, spreadability of the composition on the hair, and/or easeof brushing or combing the hair. The gel compositions did not readilydrip off the hair contacted with the compositions and remained on thehair during the straightening processing time.

TABLE 4 Emulsion Composition INCI US Formula F, % by weight ETHANOLAMINE3 THIOLACTIC ACID 8 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 1 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0.1896PPG-5-CETETH-20 3 MINERAL OIL 43.1 AMODIMETHICONE 1.15 CETETH-10PHOSPHATE 1.75 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8.25 WATER Q.S. to 100

TABLE 5 Emulsion Composition INCI US Formula G, % by weight AMINOMETHYLPROPANOL 3 THIOLACTIC ACID 8 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 1 PPG-5-CETETH-20 2.1MINERAL OIL 2.1 CETETH-10 PHOSPHATE 0.875 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7.525 WATERQ.S. to 100

The emulsion compositions above were each prepared according to thegeneral procedure:

1. Heat water to about 60° C.

2. Add the PPG-5-ceteth-20 and keep the temperature at about 60° C. andagitate the mixture for 10 minutes.

3. Combine Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Cetearyl alcohol, Polyquaternium-67 (ifpresent), and Mineral Oil and mix for another 25 minutes at 60° C. andadd to PPG-5 cetheth-20 and water mixture.

4. If present, stir Polyquaternium-6 for 10 minutes at 40° C. and add toresulting mixture.

5. Combine the neutralizing agent at 25° C. with agitation and then addthe thiolactic acid.

6. Adjust the pH and check the viscosity.

The viscosity of the inventive composition was measured using theMettler RM 180 Rheomat, at 25° C. (uD=Units of Deflection).

Viscosity measurements corresponded to a texture and consistency of anemulsion or cream composition. The cream texture provided the benefitsof ease of application of the composition into the hair, spreadabilityof the composition on the hair, and/or ease of brushing or combing thehair. The emulsion composition with the cream texture also did notreadily drip off the hair contacted with the composition and remained onthe hair during the straightening processing time.

The consistency and texture of the inventive formulas above (aqueous,gel and emulsion) allow for the formulas to be packaged in various ways,such as in jars, in tubes (e.g., squeeze tubes) or in bottles (eg,applicator bottles).

The formulas above were also found to be stable. Stability was measuredby placing the formulas in a humidity-controlled environment set at 4°C., 25° C. and 45° C. for at least 2 months. The formula was consideredto be stable when no phase separation is observed and there were verylittle fluctuations in viscosity and pH.

Example 3 Assessments of Performance and Straightening or Smoothing,Reduction of Frizziness and Volume of Hair

The performance of the compositions in Example 2 on hair was assessedaccording to the assessment method described in Example 1 B.

Assessments were performed on hair swatches before treating the swatchwith the gel composition, formula A, after treating a swatch withformula A by subjecting the swatch to the above-described rinsingprotocol (process 1), and after treating a swatch with formula A bysubjecting the swatch to the above-described non-rinsing protocol(process 2), It was found that the gel formula A significantlystraightened the hair from a curly state, imparted excellent disciplineto the hair (i.e., very low amount of or no frizz) and significantlyreduced the volume of the hair.

For formulas B to E, it was observed that the degree of straighteningand/or discipline and/or volume reduction was comparable to formula A.However, the hair treated with formula A had better or increased naturalfeel to the touch.

It was also found that the use of hydroxyethylcellulose in the gelformulas improved the quality and process of straightening the hair,i.e, it was easier to brush the hair and the flat iron platesslid/passed better or easier over the hair.

FIG. 1 shows images of images of hair swatches before treating theswatch with the emulsion composition, formula G, after treating a swatchwith formula G by subjecting the swatch to the above-described rinsingprotocol (process 1), and after treating a swatch with formula G bysubjecting the swatch to the above-described non-rinsing protocol(process 2), It was found that the emulsion formula significantlystraightened the hair from a curly state, imparted excellent disciplineto the hair (i.e., very low amount of or no frizz) and significantlyreduced the volume of the hair.

The hair swatch subjected with formula G and the rinsing protocol(process 1) had a measurement of 4, which indicated the greatest degreeof straightening and reduction of frizziness to the hair. The hairswatch subjected with formula G and the non-rinsing protocol (process 2)had a measurement of 3, which also showed a significant degree ofstraightness and reduction of frizziness in comparison to the hairswatch before treatment.

Example 4 Testing Various Ingredients Employed in the Formula

A. Testing different neutralizing agents (sodium hydroxide andaminomethyl propanol) in aqueous solutions containing 8% by weightthiolactic acid at different pH values on curly or wavy hair swatches(virgin hair, i.e., not chemically treated) using Process 1.

TABLE 6 Sodium Hydroxide pH value 2 4 6 8 10 12 % by wt of sodiumhydroxide 0.2 2.0 3.0 3.8 4.4 6.3 Straightening performance 3.5 3.5 3.52.0 — —

At pH values of 8 to 12, a high level of sensitization was observed;hair breakage was also observed in this pH range. As such, the hair wasnot rated for straightening performance at pH values of 10 and 12. At pHvalues of 2 to 6, hair cosmeticity and discipline was improved.

TABLE 7 Aminomethyl Propanol pH value 2 4 6 8 10 12 % by wt ofAminomethyl Propanol 0.3 4.6 6.5 7.0 15.8 30.0 Straightening performance3.5 3.5 1.5 2.5 — —

At pH values of 6 to 12, a high level of sensitization was observed;hair breakage was also observed in this pH range. The hair was not ratedfor straightening performance at pH values of 10 and 12. At pH values of2 to 4, hair cosmeticity and discipline was improved; the hair also feltnatural to the touch.

B. Swatch evaluation using two different cellulose compounds asviscosity/thickening agent in aqueous on curly or wavy hair swatches(virgin hair, i.e., not chemically treated).

TABLE 8 Viscosity/Thickening agent Formula 4 Formula 5 % by % by INCI USweight weight SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1 1 THIOLACTIC ACID 8 8HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.75 — METHYL HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE — 0.75 (90%active) WATER 90.25 90.25

Both formulas above provided a more natural touch to the hair.Hydroxyethylcellulose. In addition, Formula 4 had better viscosity andthe hair treated with this formula was easier to brush.

D: Swatch evaluation using different amounts of hydroxyethylcellulose inaqueous solutions on curly or wavy hair swatches (virgin hair, i.e., notchemically treated), Three aqueous solutions containing water, 8% byweight thiolactic acid, 3% by weight aminomethyl propanol, 2% by weightof silicone material comprising dimethicone and amodimethicone (KF 8020)and hydroxyethylcellulose at 0.75%, 1%, and 1.25% by weight were testedon hair swatches (all weights based on the total weight of thesolutions).

The degrees of volume reduction and discipline (reduced or no frizz)observed on the treated swatches treated with compositions having from0.75 to 1.25% by weight of hydroxyethylcellulose were comparable to eachother.

It is to be understood that the foregoing describes preferredembodiments of the invention and that modifications may be made thereinwithout departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as set forthin the claims.

1. A hair cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one thiol-basedcompound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives,their salts, and mixtures thereof; (b) optionally, at least oneneutralizing agent; and (c) water; wherein the pH of the compositionranges from 2 to less than
 7. 2. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the at least one thiol-based compound is present in an amount offrom 1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.3. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the at least oneactive agent is selected from thiolactic acid.
 4. The composition,according to claim 1, further comprising at least one neutralizing agentselected from the group consisting of organic amines, alkali metalhydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates,alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof.
 5. The composition,according to claim 4, wherein the at least neutralizing agent isaminomethyl propanol and is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 6.3% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition.
 6. Thecomposition, according to claim 4, wherein the at least neutralizingagent is sodium hydroxide and is present in an amount of from 0.1% to4.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
 7. Thecomposition, according to claim 4, wherein the at least neutralizingagent is monoethanolamine and is present in an amount of from 0.1% to4.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
 8. Thecomposition, according to claim 1, further comprising at least one fattysubstance selected from the group consisting of alkanes, esters of fattyacid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-siliconewaxes, mineral oil, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, fattyalcohols and mixtures thereof.
 9. (canceled)
 10. The composition,according to claim 8, wherein the at least one fatty substance ispresent in an amount of from 1% to 80% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.
 11. (canceled)
 12. The composition, accordingto claim 1, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant selectedfrom the group consisting of alkoxylated fatty alcohols,alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof andpresent in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.
 13. The composition according to claim 12,wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the groupconsisting of PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate andDicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphateand mixtures thereof.
 14. The composition according to claim 1, furthercomprising at least one quaternary ammonium compound present in anamount of from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.
 15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the atleast one quaternary ammonium compound is selected from the groupconsisting of behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride,behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83,polyquaternium compounds, and mixtures thereof.
 16. The compositionaccording to claim 1, further comprising at least one silicone compoundpresent in an amount of from 0.5% to 8% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.
 17. (canceled)
 18. The composition accordingto claim 1, further comprising at least one thickening agent selectedfrom thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit.
 19. Thecomposition according to claim 18, wherein the at least one thickeningagent is present in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight based on thetotal weight of the composition. 20-23. (canceled)
 24. A process forshaping hair or altering the shape of hair or caring for the hair, theprocess comprising the steps of: (1) applying onto hair, a compositionaccording to claim 1 (2) optionally, brushing or combing or smoothingthe hair; (3) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40° C.;while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and (4)optionally, rinsing the hair with water.
 25. The process according toclaim 24, further comprising the step of contacting the hair with aneutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent.
 26. (canceled)27. The process according to claim 24, further comprising the step ofcontacting the hair after step (3) with an intermediate agent selectedfrom a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.28-30. (canceled)
 31. The process, according to claim 24, wherein step(1) is preceded by one or more of the following: (i) optionally, rinsingthe hair with water while optionally applying a smoothing action on thehair; (ii) contacting the hair with a rinse-off composition selectedfrom a shampoo having a neutral pH and a conditioner having a neutralpH; and rinsing the hair with water; and (iii) contacting the hair witha pre-treatment leave-in composition.
 32. (canceled)
 33. The processaccording to claim 24, wherein after applying the composition on thehair according to step (1), the process further comprises a step ofleaving the composition in step (1) on the hair for a period of timesuch as from 1 to 60 minutes or from 1 to 60 minutes or from 5 to 60minutes or from 5 to 30 minutes before heating the hair according tostep (3).
 34. (canceled)